hotel_alessandra_itinerario_map02
This itinerary winds through 14th and 15th century Florence to admire a series of loggias constructed in different epochs and used for different functions. In fact, the loggia of Bigallo and those found in front of the ex-hospital of San Matteo, San Paolo and the Hospital of Innocenti, were used to host the numerous sick and pilgrims during times of pestilence and illnesses who, for lack of space, could not be hospitalized internally. Then there were the mercantile loggias like that of Pesce (fish )or the loggia of Porcellino used for commercial purposes, covering the numerous open air markets that were spontaneously springing up consequent to the economic development of the Florence Renaissance. Finally, the courtly loggias, like the Rucellai loggia or the Loggia of Lanzi, built to officiate public ceremonies. This route through Medieval and Renaissance Florence allows you to admire not only the buildings that constitute the main theme of this itinerary, but also the most grandiose and significant monuments of Florentine history of that period.
Route info
Length of route: approx. 3 kilometers
Time needed: approx. 3/4 hours, not including museum visits or bar/restaurant breaks.
Suggested refreshment stops: Drogheria Procacci, Cantinetta Antinori restaurant.
Route
From Borgo S.S. Apostoli go in the direction of Piazza Santa Trinita, dominated by the stately Palazzo Spini- Feroni . During the 12th century, civilian life in Florence was characterized by a long period of internal fighting which favoured the construction of houses and fortified palaces. The function of a palace fort is evidenced in the squared structure and the presence of ledges and Guelph décor. Today, the edifice is the seat of the Salvatore Ferragamo Shoe Museum. Pass in front of it and go towards the Church of Santa Trinità and enter into via del Parione, following it until the end reaching Piazza Goldini. Go immediately to your right into via della Vigna nuova and about half way down the street you will find a little piazza where Loggia Rucellai is found . Most likely designed by Alberti and constructed in 1468, it is the only loggia left in Florence that belonged to a private family.
Done in Renaissance style with the Rucellai coat of arms, shows a sail waving in the wind and symbol of fortune, on the pediment. It was used by the noble family to celebrate marriages, parties, and funerals. Continue on and get on to via Tornabuoni , considered the “salotto di Firenze” (Florence’s salon) because of the numerous high fashion and antique shops and beautiful palaces that line it (XI-XIX centuries) belonging to the most prestigious families of that epoch, from Palazzo Strozzi to Palazzo Tornabuoni, with his Loggia , Palazzo Larderel and others. Go to your left now and on the sidewalk in front of you, you could stop at Procacci’s , antique grocer’s famous in Italy and abroad for their mythical “truffled sandwiches”.
Farther on you will arrive in Piazza Antinori, dominated by the Palazzo of the same name , where the Cantinetta Antinori, noted for its refined Tuscan cuisine, is found. After having passed the piazza, go to your right in via del Trebbio, cross over via delle Belle Donne and arrive in Piazza Santa Maria Novella. In front of the magnificent Church, on the opposite side of the piazza, stands the Ancient Ospedale di San Paolo (hospital of Saint Paul) . In the first half of the 1500’s it was decided to build a portico on it, in Brunelleschi style, and it is characterized with waterleaf capitals in Renaissance style; the three lunettes in glazed terracotta placed above the doors, were done by Andrea della Robbia. It later became a hospice/hospital and, in 1558, Ferdinand I put it to use as a hospital for the convalescent. Until the end of 1800, the rooms hosted the School for needy spinsters, but during the second World War, it became a lugubrious place for depositing hundreds of political prisoners who left here for Auschwitz. In the loggia, nicknamed Leopoldine because Pietro Leopoldo set up some schools here, you find the entrance to the Alinari National Museum of Photography. Get back on via de’ Banchi and follow on to via de’ Cerretani and arrive in Piazza San Giovanni. Go to Piazza Duomo and stop in front of the parvis of Basilica of Santa Maria del Fiore.
Look to your right, on the corner that intersects with via de’ Calzaiouli, and see the elegant Loggia del Bigallo . It was built around the middle 1300’s for the Compagnia della Misericordia (Company of Mercy) and in 1425 it became the seat of the Compagnia of Bigallo, institution that provided assistance to orphaned children. Today, it is the seat to a Museum holding the fresco of the “Madonna della Misericordia” portraying the oldest panorama of Florence. From Piazza Duomo, follow on for via de’ Martelli and then, after having passed the imposing Palazzo Medici-Ricardi, go on to via Cavour. Arrive in Piazza San Marco where, on the right of the Church, you will notice another loggia, that of the ex-Hospital of San Matteo . In 1300, it held a ward for female employees of the Hospital of Santa Maria Nuova. In 1784, Pietro Leopolo founded the first gallery of the Accademy here, donating to it a rich collection of antique pictorial works for the school’s pupils. In the last century, the sculpture of David by Michelangelo was transferred here and can be seen when entering the museum from the via Ricasoli entrance.
Now, go across via Cesare Battisti in Piazza Santissima Annunziata where, on the side of the loggia facing the Basilica of the same name, you find the Ospedale degli Innocenti (Hospital of the Innocent) and the Loggiato dei Serviti (Loggia of the Servites). The first was dedicated exclusively to abandoned children and its construction was financed in 1419 by the Arte della Seta (Silk Arts). On the left front, a window square, later barred with iron where abandoned children were deposited, is still conserved.
The Loggia of the Servites began to take shape in 1516 following a design by Antonio Sangallo and Baccio d’Agnolo. The Oratory of the Brotherhood of San Girolamo and San Francesco Poverino in San Filippo Benizi are found here. Conserved inside are many works of art and furnishings that belonged to the three brotherhoods. On the full reliefs between the arcades, intertwined “S’s” are painted, emblem of the Order of Servants to Maria. Today a large part of the loggia arcade is used by a hotel. Go on to via de’ Servi and half way down turn in to via Bufalini. Follow along it and you will reach the front of the Ospedale di S. Maria Nuova founded in 1288 by Folco Portinari, Beatrice’s father. It is not only the oldest, but also the most important and still functioning hospital in the city. In front, find via Folco Portinari, one time called via delle Pappe (mushes) because of the soups of boiled breads served to the sick who waited on the streets. The 14th century hospital was later enlarged, absorbing the nearby convent of St. Egidio, to establish a center for scientific training for doctors and nurses.
The Loggiato grounds today, are a result of interventions carried out through different epochs. Go on to via S. Egidio and cut into Piazza Salvemini.
A bit farther ahead get on to via Pietrapiana and about half way you will find Piazza del Ciompi where, to your right, you will notice the magnificent Loggia del Pesce (fish loggia) . It was built in 1568 by Vasari and was initially found in Piazza del Mercato Vecchio, today Piazza della Repubblica. It was dismantled on the occasion of the “cleaning” of the piazza in 1955 and rebuilt in the place we find it now. The elegant loggia is towered with Medicean emblems and some full relief polychromes resembling fish. You might benefit by taking a walk around the piazza where the suggestive Mercato delle Pulci (flea market) is found. Small little shops, crowded with “grandma’s” objects, one after the other, lined up on both sides. Go back towards Piazza Salvemini and enter into Borgo degli Albizi until you reach the intersection of via del Proconsolo.
Turn right and passing in front of two magnificent buildings; on the right, the Bargello and on the left, the Church of Badia Florentina, you will arrive in Piazza S. Firenze. Admire the majestic Tribunal composed of a union of two twin churches; Chiesa e l’Oratorio dei padri Filippini (Church and Oratory of the Philippine Fathers) and the Convent in the center. Go on now to via dei Leoni.
Here, find the Loggia del Grano (grain loggia) commissioned by Cosimo II as a grain market to replace what is now the spot where the Church of Orsanmichele stands today. The food storage spaces are found on the upper floors above the loggias where the grain and cereal markets were held. In the middle of the main arcade, on the via dei Neri side, see the bust of Cosimo II. From 1960 the loggia has changed different destinations; it was Theater of the Logge and then Variety Theater and cinema, and today is occupied by a bar and restaurant.
Get on to the very narrow via della Ninna and you find yourself in Piazza della Signoria. The Loggia dei Lanzi, that you see almost attached to Palazzo Vecchio , was commissioned to Orcagna in 1347, by the Municipal of Florence, in order to have a building to host official ceremonies. It is composed of three arches and supporting half circle arches. Between one column and another you can find lobed forms with enamelled bottoms portraying the Virtues. With the affirmation of the Medici power, the loggia slowly lost its functional purpose, becoming an annex of the residence of the Princes. Today it is a splendid open air museum where among the masterpiece sculptures, emerges the recently restored “Perseo” done by Benvenuto Cellini, Go now in the direction of via Vacchereccia and enter into via Por Santa Maria. This short street opens up into Piazza del Mercato Nuovo where, during Medieval times, the most refined merchandise; wool, silk and others were sold and where businesses trading in precious monetary means, was done. Note, in fact, a book shop called “del Porcellino” that was at that time the seat of the “Art Exchange”.
In 1547, Cosimo I de’ Medici had the large loggia, that you see here, built where you can also see the basin of the wild boar in bronze (a copy) by Pietro Tacca. From the name that the Florentines affectionately gave the wild boar, today the loggia is called Loggia del Porcellino (porcellino meaning wild boar). Return now on to via Por Santa Maria, pass via delle Terme and the next street on the right is Borgo SS. Apostoli.
Along the way
Church of Santa Trinita
open from Monday to Sunday from 7am to 12 pm and 4 pm to 7 pm
Ferragamo Museum
open from Monday to Sunday from 10am to 6 pm; Closed Tuesdays
Church and Convent of San Marco
open from Monday to Fridays from 8:15 am to 1:50 pm; Saturdays and Sundays from 8:15 am to 6:50 pm.
Galleria of the Accademia
open from Tuesday to Sunday from 8:15 am to 6:50 pm; Closed on Mondays, New Year’s Day , May 1st and Christmas
Basilica of S.S. Annunziata
open from 7;30 am to 12:30 pm and from 4 pm to 6:30 pm
Ospedale degli Innocenti
open from 8.30 am to 2 pm; Closed on Wednesdays
Museum and Loggia of Bigello
open from Tuesday to Saturday from 10am to 2 pm and again from 3 pm to 7 pm; Closed on Mondays, Christmas, New Year’s Eve and New Year’s Day
Museum and Cloister of S. Maria Novella
open from 9 am to 5 pm on Weekends and from 9 am to 2 pm during the week; Closed on Fridays and Sundays
Alinari Museum
open from 9 am to 7:30 pm; Closed on Wednesdays
Palazzo Vecchio and quarters
open from 9 am to 7 pm during the week and from 9 am to 2 pm on Sundays and Holidays
Bargello Museum
open from 8:15 am to 1:50 pm
Church of Badia Fiorentina (Cloister of the Aranci)
open on Mondays from 3 pm to 6 pm; Closed on New Year’s Day, Easter, Easter Monday and Christmas
Basilica of S. Maria del Fiore
open on Mondays, Tuesdays, Wednesdays, and Fridays from 10 am to 5 pm;
on Thursdays from 10 am to 3:30 pm;
on Saturdays from 10 am to 4:45 pm;
on Ash Wednesday from 10 am to 4:30 pm;
on Holy Thursday from 12:30 pm to 4:30 pm;
on Good Friday from 10:30 am to 4:30 pm;
on Holy Saturday from 10:30 am to 4:45 pm;
Closed on the Epiphany
Cupola of S. Maria del Fiore
open from Monday to Friday from 8:30 am to 7 pm;
on Saturdays from 8:30 am to 5:40 pm;
Closed on New Year’s Day, Epiphany,
Holy Thursday,
Good Friday and Holy Saturday, Easter, June 24th, August 15th, September 8th, November 1st,
the Monday and Tuesday before the first week of Advent, Christmas,
December 26th; on May 1st open from 8:30 am to 5 pm
Santa Reparata
open on Monday, Tuesday, Wednesday and Friday from 10 am to 5 pm;
Saturdays from 10 am to 4:45 pm; May 1st from 8:30 to 5 pm;
Closed on the same holidays as the Cupola
Giotto’s Bell Tower
open from 8:30 am to 7:30 pm;
Closed from February 4th to the 14th; Closed in January, on Easter, September 8th, and Christmas
Baptistery
open from 12 midday to 7 pm; Sundays from 8:30 am to 2 pm;
the first Saturday of the month from 8:30 to 2 pm; on Easter Monday, April 25th and May 1st from 8:30 am to 7 pm;
Closed on New Year’s Day, Easter, September 8th, Christmas Eve
Palazzo Medici-Riccardi
open everyday from 9 am to 7 pm
Cappella of Benozzo Gozzoli
open from 9 am to 7 pm; Closed on Wednesdays
Uffizi Gallery
open from 8:15 am to 6:50 pm; Closed on Mondays
Porcellino Open air Market
open from 8 am to 7 pm; Closed on Monday mornings and Sundays
Pulci Open air flea Market
open from 9 am to 7:30 pm: Closed on Mondays